Here was a basic triaxial blend we did in my Celadon Glaze class. Essentially you’re mixing proportions of 3 different colorants in a systematic way. I recommend mixing 3 x 300g cups of a base formula
For our class, we used the base recipe:
Cone 6 Wide Firing Clear
Kona Feldspar 38
Zinc Oxide 12
OM4 Ball Clay 15
After mixing up 3 cups of your base recipe, choose your oxide or mason stain colorants. Mix them in and sieve. Make yourself a chart, or follow this example:
Our 3 Colorants were Robin’s Egg Blue, Bermuda Green, and Cobalt Carbonate. The picture is self explanatory. (Note: We screwed up #11 either by adding in 80% C instead of B, or just dipping into cup #10 2x)
Here’s the newest round of slips for leather hard/stiff application. All but #7 will work for bone dry application. Not tested (yet) for bisque application. Fired to cone 10 flat in a hard reduction. Left side is super thick, right side is thinner. Clay body is a Hawthorn/Goldart/OM4 stoneware – nothing fancy.
The light is cheating these a little bit. #1,2, and 8 seem to be the whitest, with not much differentiating them. #1 seems to promote the best celadon blues, although timing is critical, because it cracked when applied to a bone dry tile. #2 seems to be a perfect middle ground in terms of versatility, cost, and whiteness. In my experience, the difference between a 50/50 grolleg/epk and a 100% grolleg clay body is negligible in cone 10 reduction. The case could be made that it really matters in oxidation – which is just now bringing to mind the need to test these in c6 oxidation.
Wow, getting back to the blog after a LONG hiatus. Will be changing some things around in the coming week, but seeing as how I keep procrastinating because the whole blog needs a revamp, I decided to say to hell with it all and just go ahead with some new and exciting round of glaze tests.